Mountaineering Aiguille du Peigne

The Aiguille du Peigne (3192 m) is one of the famous Aiguilles of Chamonix. Easily accessible from the mid-station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car (2310 m), it offers a variety of great climbs. In French, "Peigne" means comb, a fitting word to describe the sharp, spiky fin of the summit ridge. It is a true paradise for climbers and mountaineers, whether for a first experience or a proper alpine adventure. Due to the multitude of routes, reservations are only made via email or phone. Our team is at your disposal to help you choose the route that suits you best. Prices vary based on the difficulty and usual duration of the ascent, detailed in our dedicated booklet.

The normal route of the Aiguille du Peigne is a classic alpine climb. It takes the Papillons couloir and scrambles up to the breach (3043 m), where proper rock climbing (4+ sustained) begins, threading its way through areas of weakness. It is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful rock climbs in the Mont-Blanc Massif, comparable to the south ridge of the Aiguille du Moine. The descent is by abseil to the breach, then the ascent route is mainly followed for the return. As an option, the final climb can be adapted to reach the famous Lépiney crack, offering an exceptional pitch (5c sustained).

In the foothills of the Aiguille du Peigne, the Papillons arete is a timeless classic route, first climbed in 1926. The climb (5a sustained with a 6a move), mainly in cracks typical of the Mont-Blanc Massif, takes place on high-quality rock. The route follows a series of steps to reach the exit of the Papillons couloir at the gendarme (3009 m). An abseil allows for descent back to the Papillons couloir.

The Aiguille du Peigne also offers a multitude of multi-pitch routes in trad climbing. The Minettes Spur (4c max) and the Lepidopteres (5b max), the most accessible, are perfectly suited for beginners to familiarize themselves with Chamonix granite. On the Peigne slabs, "Le Rond, le Ticket et la Lune" is a beautiful climb (6a sustained, 6b max). On the southwest face, the Vaucher is the most popular multi-pitch route (6a max).